view from a passenger boat of a tanker going under the bosphorus bridge

Cruising the Continental Divide in Istanbul

Is Turkey part of Europe, Asia or the Middle East? The answer is a resounding yes.

It is 3% in Europe and 97% in Asia. It is also a key strategic player in the Middle East and has a coveted place at its decision and policy-making table. Istanbul reigns supreme as Europe’s largest city. It also holds the heavyweight title as the only city in the world that sits in two different continents. 

Gigantic letters spelling out I heart Istanbul


The Bosphorus, also known as the Istanbul Strait, a 19-mile stretch of water that connects the Black Sea (north) to the Sea of Marmara (south), is Turkey’s continental divide. It also splits Istanbul into its European and Asian halves. Around 65% of Istanbul’s population resides on the European side. 

Bosphorus bridge with night lighting
Asian-side night view of the Bosphorus Bridge

For centuries, the Bosphorus has been a critically important strategic, economic and military waterway. It aided the expansion of the massive Ottoman Empire, seated in Istanbul, which held sway for 600 years until it fell during World War I. These days, access to the waterway for cargo shipping, passenger ferries and private boats remains an international maritime necessity. The Bosphorus has four times the traffic of the Panama Canal and it is said that about 38% of Russia’s oil travels the Bosphorus. Economic and strategic interests aside, the Bosphorus is also a place for fishing, as it is a migratory path for marine life traveling from one sea to the other. 

Daytime view of a tanker sailing under the Bosphorus Bridge
Boatside view of a tanker going under Bosphorus Bridge

Since time immemorial, the Bosphorus has been dominant in the region. I found myself staring at her in wonder. She is bold, mysterious and enchanting. Inasmuch as she wields her maritime prowess, on a hot summer day her waters glisten as she softly beckons to locals, tourists and seafarers to take a swim. 

I experienced the Strait with a vibrant group and an excellent chef. Fresh from her second place win on Şef Akademi, Turkey’s version of Top Chef, Arzu Gasimova (@cookmeeatme), a corporate executive turned trained chef, showcased her culinary talents for a fine dining experience along the Bosphorus. I joined a small cadre of women for a delightful, lazy, indulgent day cruising these historic, power-infused waters. 

People and boats in the water of the Bosphorus
Making the Bosphorus our water playground (I’m on the left) 

Other than my Remote Year bubble, this was my first time being with a group in more than a year. We were an eclectic group of teachers, writers, marketers, nomads, chefs and adventurers. We were British, French, American, Turkish and Russian, all united in our enthusiasm for good food, water and sunshine. It was refreshing. 

Menu for the day
Chef preparing an appetizer
Chef Arzu preparing the first course

The energy was light and spirited, and my taste buds delighted in Chef Arzu’s preparations. From my first bite, I knew I was in for some good eatin’! We had six courses of carefully crafted cuisine, flavor-enhanced with friendly conversation and warm laughter. However, my pleasure was threatened by passing cargo ships that instigated choppy waters. I had to steady myself more than a few times to stave off seasickness! Yes, the Bosphorus is a beautiful water playground, however, she remains about her business, just as she has for centuries. With help from her patrons, like a stone to the still waters of a pond, the Bosphorus reminds you of her priorities.  

Post-cruise photo (Arzu is in the middle holding her chef’s knife)

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