Salt of the Earth & Gratitude in Split, Croatia

Even though I am several months removed from the intensity of a workplace and the hum of an ever-moving urban existence, I still have to check myself (or maybe pinch myself!) about having gratitude for the ease of being in Split, Croatia.  This week, I noticed a theme. I had begun to really connect with pomalo—the take it easy way of being that is central to the Mediterranean, and more specifically, the Dalmation-regionlifestyle. My activities this week centered around the natural order of life and basking in simple pleasures. 

I visited a beekeeper, dined with a fish farmer, had a visual feast at the farmers’ market, and saw forever from the height of Split’s famous bell tower. I also got a kick in the seat of my pants when I tried to be extra. 

Catching Bees With Honey

What was probably my best day in Croatia started with spun gold; fresh honey. I ferried from Split to the island of Šolta and began the day with a visit to Tvrdić Honey, a bee farm that is run by a third-generation beekeeper, Goran. I have visited a bee farm before and this experience not only added a layer to my basic knowledge, it made me want to become a beekeeper! Goran’s passion for the importance of bees to the ecosystem and our very existence would make anyone want to become a bee advocate. My Remote Year group paid rapt attention as he busted myths (bees are more brown than yellow), let us taste test pollen (yep, we should eat it regularly) and cautioned that putting honey in hot tea degrades its nutritional value (keep it below 95F). 

Fish Seasoned With Love

My time with bees was followed by a visit to LIME with Igor and his family. Igor’s journey to create LIME, a fish farm with an experiential twist, was vaguely familiar. He was a couple of decades into a successful career, however, the professional esteem had lost its luster and he wanted more, but not in the way you may expect. He wanted more time with his wife. More time with his sons. More simplicity. So, he said goodbye to the corporate grind and did a complete 180. He bought a small fish farm and learned the trade under the tutelage of the person he bought it from. 

The farm places him close to nature and far away from the demands of his former life. He utilizes a methodical feeding routine that produces small batches of high-quality lean fish, which he provides to local restaurants and individuals. He also hosts private groups for a unique sea-to-table lunch experience. He insisted that his venue was NOT a restaurant and was emphatic that he had no plans to scale. He is contentedly living life on his terms.

Igor is not only a living example of how much joy can come from simplicity, he takes a similar approach with the fish he prepares. Our group feasted on a simple meal of mussels, fish, bread and wine. The ancillary ingredients: olive oil, salt, garlic, parsley and love. After almost every bite, I wanted to close my eyes to savor the harmony of the food and chew with no visual distractions. This was the most memorable meal of my entire trip. The focus on so few ingredients and no sauces made me second guess the value-add of condiments!

Eating Green

In Split, you eat in-season. If it doesn’t grow with ease locally, you don’t find it easily. If you do find atypical produce, it will cost a small fortune. So, your best bet is to keep it simple and enjoy what is available. 

The produce selection at the grocery store left much to be desired. As such, the Green Market of Split is THE place to get your produce. My apartment was two blocks from it, and in the mornings, I would see a steady stream of locals walking from the market with fresh produce in tow. They visit the Green Market with the same regularity that a coffee drinker picks up her favorite brew en route to the office.

The market radiates livelihood. I felt the energy of labor put into the planting, tilling, watering and picking of the vegetables. The farmers truly showcased their agricultural bounty. The leafy chard bouquet, carefully stacked tomatoes, tubs of dried fruit and bottles of homemade olive oil on display made me want to make a hearty salad and swear off processed food. I spent about 12 USD on the selection below. 

Split’s Views from the Tower

In Old Town Split, not far from the Green Market, stands the bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The tower dates back to 1100 AD and stands around 200 feet. Why is it that we like to climb towers? I am not a fan of heights, but when I was invited to climb the tower, I thought it would be fun to do.

There was no elevator and the stairs have an open design, which made me clinch my teeth as I got higher and higher. The reward for the effort was the spectacular view of Split’s terracotta rooftops, birds perched upon steeples and the point where the sea met the sky. I would argue that the sight of a body of water can be just as pleasing as its sound. Who would have thought that the mere view of an expanse of ocean would be so delightful?  

Italy Will Still Be There

On a map, you will find Croatia across from the calf of Italy’s boot. The flight is barely an hour and it is not unheard of to fly to Rome for 50 USD roundtrip.  Although I have been to Italy several times, due to proximity, I could not resist the urge to go again. Two Remote Year friends and I planned a weekend that included a night tour of the newly-opened Colosseum underground, a tour of Pompeii with an archaeologist and a jaunt to Naples for pizza. I had already begun to anticipate the taste of the sauce that makes Naples pizza famous!  Well, my excitement was short-lived. It turned out that my trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina the week prior prompted a Covid-related smackdown due to the guidelines provided by Italy’s Health Ministry. While completing pre-trip paperwork, we learned that Bosnia was on Italy’s restricted country list. Two in our trio would have to wait 14 days to enter Italy. So, we canceled our plans.

The Italy trip falling apart turned out to be a lesson in gratitude. I was in Croatia. Living. With an apartment ten minutes from the beach. Did I really need Italy at this moment in time?  Why was I not maximizing the gift I had?

Thursday night, rather than seated on a flight to Rome, I found myself among my fellow Remotes, sitting on a stone ledge at the Port of Split, having some hearty laughs, enjoying a beer, watching the sun set upon Croatia.